Italian police visit fashion firms including Cucinelli and Moncler in labour probe
Investigation into Alleged Labour Exploitation in Italian Fashion Industry
By Emilio Parodi
Police Actions and Scope of the Probe
MILAN, July 16 (Reuters) - Italian police have visited the headquarters of nine high-end fashion firms, demanding documents on governance and supply-chain controls as part of an investigation into alleged exploitation of workers at subcontractors, a judicial document shows.
Brands Involved
The brands that received the orders are Brunello Cucinelli, Moncler, Chanel, Bulgari, Jacob Cohen Company spa, Etro, Stefano Ricci, Goyard Italie and Owenscorp Italia.
Status of the Investigation
None of the nine companies is under investigation, and prosecutors have not sought court-appointed administration for any of them, according to the order reviewed by Reuters.
Company Responses
Cucinelli's Statement
Cucinelli said in a statement it was surprised and deeply saddened that part of the materials intended for its packaging were found at an unsuitable workplace, despite supplier checks and fair pricing, and pledged full cooperation to protect workers and the wider 'Made in Italy' brand.
Other Companies
The other firms did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
Background and Previous Operations
Earlier Investigations
The move, conducted on Thursday, is the second of its kind, after the Carabinieri labour unit in Milan carried out a similar operation in December 2025 at the headquarters of 13 other top fashion brands, including Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, over the same issues.
Extension of the Probe
According to a nine-page decree seen by Reuters, the additional brands were drawn into the probe after police found products and subcontracting documents linked to them during earlier searches of two workshops, accused of exploiting undocumented Chinese workers.
Workshops and Supply Chain
The two Chinese-owned workshops made garment bags, shopping bags and pouches for Brandart and F. VL., two companies also visited by the Carabinieri on Thursday, which supplied the items directly to the nine fashion brands that marketed them under their own labels.
Industry Impact
The operation follows an investigation that has placed seven other fashion groups under court-appointed administration, in a series of cases that have tarnished the industry's image over the past three years.
Compliance and Court Decisions
The Milan court later lifted the measures against the seven companies after they brought their practices into compliance with the judges' requirements.
Reporting Credits
(Reporting by Emilio Parodi, additional reporting by Elisa AnzolinEditing by Kirsten Donovan and Keith Weir)
