Saint Laurent ends decade-long tenure of designer Vaccarello as part of wider group revamp

Saint Laurent Parts Ways with Designer Vaccarello During Kering’s Revamp

Anthony Vaccarello's Departure and Kering's Strategic Shifts

Background on Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent

PARIS, Oct 9 (Reuters) - Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after a decade as the brand's creative director, the brand's owner Kering said on Friday. 

Vaccarello, appointed in 2016 to succeed Hedi Slimane, turned the French couture brand into a global powerhouse by tapping into strong Chinese demand, reaching well over €3 billion in annual sales in 2023, before losing traction amid a wider industry slowdown.

Upcoming Changes at Saint Laurent

A new creative director for the label will be announced soon, Kering said. The company, whose shares are down 31% this year, is due to report third-quarter sales on Oct. 22. 

Vaccarello's Creative Vision and Achievements

With runway shows staged against a lit-up Eiffel Tower, Vaccarello, sought to preserve the label's Parisian identity while expanding its reach, pushing the brand into film production, including Cannes-winning "Emilia Pérez". 

Industry Context and Kering's Broader Strategy

Creative Director Changes Across Kering Brands

Saint Laurent was the last major Kering brand to cling on to its creative director amid a luxury industry slowdown that already prompted designer changes at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta. 

Kering's Revamp and Market Focus

The exit comes as Kering CEO Luca de Meo seeks to overhaul the group after years of decline. Gaining new foothold on the Chinese market will be a top priority. 

Financial Performance and Outlook

Saint Laurent's gross revenues fell by 9% and 6% in 2024 and 2025, before largely stabilizing this year, Kering said. 

(Reporting by Tassilo Hummel; Editing by Makini Brice)