Top Stories
The barnacle, Spaniards’ favourite Christmas dish, imperilled by climate change
Home > Top Stories > The barnacle, Spaniards’ favourite Christmas dish, imperilled by climate change
Global Banking & Finance Review®
Company
By Leonardo Benassatto and Nacho Doce
CORME, Spain (Reuters) – On the craggy rocks on northwestern Spain’s treacherous Costa da Morte (Death Coast), wetsuit-clad fishermen dodge crashing waves as they pick barnacles, a prized Christmas delicacy facing decline due to climate change and other factors.
Fetching up to 200 euros ($208) per kilogram (2.2 pounds) during the holiday season, the gooseneck barnacle from the Galicia region has long been treasured by Spaniards for both its flavour and difficulty to harvest.
However, the rise in sea temperatures driven by climate change has severely affected barnacle habitats, as they thrive in icy waters. A recent study by the University of Vigo also linked changing wave patterns to lower quality in the shellfish.
Israel Martinez, an auctioneer in the A Coruna fish market, said that there used to be double or triple the number of barnacles just 10 years ago.
Despite state regulations – such as limiting daily harvests to 7 kg per fisherman – illegal fishing has surged due to the barnacles’ high value.
Licensed percebeiros, or barnacle pickers, have called for increased policing of the coast to deter poachers.
Their job is classified as a risky profession due to the adverse work conditions.
“The percebeiro trade on the Costa da Morte is dying. This is due to climate change, absurd laws, illegal fishing and a lack of workers,” 36-year-old Roberto Vidal, who started out as a percebeiro at 16, told Reuters.
He said there used to be between 100 and 200 percebeiros in his town of Corme. Now, there are around 30.
Fellow percebeiro Serafin Rodriguez said that future generations would be unable to follow in his footsteps due to declining barnacle populations.
($1 = 0.9616 euros)
(Writing by David Latona; Editing by Andrei Khalip and Sharon Singleton)
Climate change refers to significant changes in global temperatures and weather patterns over time, primarily driven by human activities such as burning fossil fuels, deforestation, and industrial processes.
Barnacles are marine crustaceans that attach themselves to hard surfaces in the ocean. They are known for their distinctive shell and are often harvested for food in various cultures.
Illegal fishing refers to the act of catching fish in violation of laws and regulations. This practice can lead to overfishing and depletion of fish stocks, impacting marine ecosystems.
A percebeiro is a licensed fisherman in Spain who specializes in harvesting gooseneck barnacles. This profession is known for its high risks due to challenging harvesting conditions.
Explore more articles in the Top Stories category
